How big alternator should i get

A high-output alternator will deliver enough power to the factory stereo system without disrupting any other functions of the vehicle. Most often, the factory alternators could not produce a big bass or a loud sound. It is not designed to provide stronger power at all.

However, when you intend to make louder the audio quality, the first attempt you have to go for is installing a more potent amplifier with your factory head unit. By chance, if you install a larger amplifier without adjusting the alternator power, undoubtedly, your car will give you a larger volume.

Flickering Dash Lights, Dimming the Headlights, delivering a low bass from your sub, improper air conditioning, etc. Not at all. It only cut huge money from you.

It can filter energy that is provided by the alternator. A or amp alternator is the high output alternator, most provably powerful enough to deliver a louder stereo system. Best 6. There are a few actions you can take to solve this problem.

There are also some strong and differing opinions about the order in which you should do them, or even their individual usefulness. The following is my contribution to the argument. The first thing you should do is make sure all the surfaces used in power and ground connections are scraped down to bare metal, clean, and all the connectors and the battery terminals fastened tightly together.

If that doesn't do it, take your car and have its battery load-tested at an auto parts or battery store. They'll often do it for free and can recommend the proper replacement if they find your old battery has problems. Car batteries rarely live to be four years old, so don't think you're being cheated when they tell you your old battery isn't holding its charge. A weak battery can often have enough juice to start your car but not be able to handle the quick jolt of demand when your sub amp hits.

If you do decide you need to replace your battery, consider getting an XS Power battery from Crutchfield. XS Power batteries feature a sealed absorbed glass mat AGM design, instead of the standard liquid electrolyte design, so they actually store energy — meaning you don't have to add a capacitor to your system to get a quick burst when you need it. We carry a full assortment of the most popular sizes available. The next thing to try is to add a second battery , often back near the amplifier.

This, in effect, provides another source of power available to fill in the gaps when the system needs it. When the power is asked for, it comes from the batteries. Two batteries wired in parallel act like one battery with twice the capacity.

A second battery becomes almost necessary if you play your music a lot with the engine turned off. Some people use isolators between their batteries, so that the one used to start the car won't get drained by the amp's pull. And it's a good idea to only hook up two batteries of equal strength and age.

The stress of two different strength batteries constantly cycling charge between themselves to equalize the voltage leads to a shortened life for both batteries. A good, cost-effective improvement is to perform the "Big Three" electrical upgrade.

This will vastly improve your vehicle's electrical system, allowing more current to flow easier to all components. This increases your electrical system's current flow capability, ensuring a more consistent voltage under varying demand conditions. An unfortunate possible side effect of doing the Big Three is that occasionally it only makes your lights dim even worse.

This happens because the amplifier is now able to suck juice better from the system through the bigger straw the new cables.

The alternator is the ultimate source for all of your vehicle's power when it's running. The battery starts the engine, but the alternator takes over when the motor starts to turn. If your sound system demands more power than your stock alternator can supply, then you will benefit by upgrading to a higher output alternator. Replacing your stock alternator with an "HO alt" may seem like an expensive solution, but if you've invested in a sound system that draws this much power, you shouldn't mind solving this problem of supply and demand by increasing the supply of power.

For example: producing a watt output requires about amperes of current from your car's system. It's actually about a third of that for music, which doesn't put out full power all the time — but it's still a lot of current. A or ampere aftermarket high output alternator should provide enough power for all your car's systems and your high-powered stereo too.

Keeping that in mind, calculating the required output size of a high output alternator is not easy and should only be done while consulting with the new alternator's vendor or installer. Adding a capacitor to your system does not increase your system's power capacity. But if your lights dim only occasionally, and only on the loud drum beats, then a capacitor may just be the cure. A capacitor smoothes out the power demands by providing a short burst of energy when needed.

I recommend 2 farads of capacitor for every 1, watts RMS of total amplifier power. That's more than the usual recommended dose, but it should ensure a quicker recovery time for the cap to be ready for the next thump.

Note: Working with a car's electrical system can be dangerous. Tools and jewelry can be welded by the inadvertent discharge of a battery or capacitor.

Sparks could fly, igniting flammable gases. Batteries have been known to explode when overstressed. I know it for a fact: I witnessed a friend's battery exploding and setting his Lincoln on fire. If you're inexperienced or don't feel comfortable working with high-current devices, then hire a professional to do these upgrades and installations.

And please, don't let anyone talk you into doing any of these procedures unless you are experiencing bothersome headlight dimming. Systems with less than 1, watts RMS of total output rarely, if ever, need the vehicle's electrical system upgraded.

Hey Buck - I have a 5. I have just about 2, watts of constant power in aftermarket stereo equipment. Big-3 is done and whole car is run with 0 gauge OFC wire. I'm experiencing severe voltage drop dipping so, i have a poniac grand prix. All of these additions call for a Big 3 upgrade so I bought 0 Gauge cables but it seems to only hurt my system. Do you have info as to what may have been the issue with my big 3 power from battery to alternator wire.

I just used those same grounds for my car audio additions. Same time. I have a Dodge Challenger Scat Pack. I believe it has a computer controlled charging system. And can I run the ground cable from the alternator mounting bolt to the body of the vehicle to count as the block to body ground. I have a Honda CRV all stock electrical system.

I'm putting in a Kicker mono sub amp that supports Watt 4ohms or Watt at 2ohms. I have old single subs 10" that are rated for both. If I use the 2ohm sub Watt does that actually pull twice as many amps too? Or is the watt output result pulling the same amount of amps between 2ohm and 4 ohm.

I'm asking because this will affect how powerful a 4 channel amp I can buy for the door speakesr. I intend to stay well below the watt limit so I don't have to upgrade the electrical system. The battery in my car is very small almost like a motorcycle battery size. Hi I drive a Hyundai Sonata and my last DB drive 3k rms 1 ohm amp failed after a long session of high bass volume.

Lasted two or three years. I think the biggest HO alt I can use is amps. How strong of an amp can reliably be pushed by that? I have a Honda Fit I've ordered the audio gear and everything will equal watts rms maybe slightly more. However, the battery in my car is smaller than the average battery and I cannot find a battery anywhere that is at least cranking amps that will fit in my car. I ordered the XP to use as a 2nd battery. I'm thinking I'm going to have to get a battery isolator to prevent the batteries from killing each other sooner since they don't match.

Is this the best move or should I do something different? I have a 94 mustang gt 5. To power my 12 in dvc sub. My stock alternator puts out From what ive read. This should be enough. But my alternator or battery may be bad. I plan on checking the two 1st to see each ones status. Then finishing checking all the grounds to make sure they are cleaned. And adding an extra power wire from the battery to the alternator. I've already added an extra ground to the alternator coming from the batter.

For the battery. What is a capacitor? Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Jeremy Laukkonen. Facebook Twitter LinkedIn. Updated on March 21, Jessica Kormos. Lifewire Technology Review Board Member. Jessica Kormos is a writer and editor with 15 years' experience writing articles, copy, and UX content for Tecca. Article reviewed on Nov 25, Tweet Share Email. In This Article. High Amp Alternator Supply and Demand. Was this page helpful? Thanks for letting us know!

Email Address Sign up There was an error. Please try again. You're in! Thanks for signing up. There was an error. Tell us why! More from Lifewire. Installing a Power Inverter in a Car or Truck. Understanding Alternator Output Ratings.