When is a lawn established

This will kill the existing grass as well as any weeds. Leave the sprayed area for 2 weeks, to allow all the weeds and grass to die. Measure the area so you can work out the amount of lawn seed and starter fertiliser you will need.

If the soil is hard and compacted, loosen the surface with a rake to create a softer surface for the lawn seed to germinate in. Once the area has loose soil and is even, lightly rake the area one way to create shallow furrows. Mix the required amount of lawn seed with a Starter Fertiliser. This makes it much easier to spread out the lawn seed, adds valuable organic matter to the soil and provides the new grass seedlings with gentle slow release nutrients as they establish.

Water the area gently and thoroughly, so that the top soil is moist. This may require watering several times a day. The most common reason for a newly sown lawn not being successful is lack of moisture during the germination and establishment phase. Minimise foot and pet traffic on the new lawn area until it is well established. Caring for your lawn Fertilising Lawn Regular light fertilising during the growing season is better than infrequent, heavy fertilising.

Mowing Lawn With established lawns, cut warm season grasses to 2. Watering Lawn Some lawns require a large amount of watering so, depending on the situation and soil type. Related Products. Over-seeding is most successful when accompanied by wet weather or diligent and frequent watering. Top-Dressing: Top-dressing is the process of adding soil to the top of the lawn area in the hopes of improving the soil structure or increasing fertility.

We strongly recommend against top-dressing. The process can easily lead to soil-layering which can result in water infiltration problems. Soil layering often causes very strange interactions between soil and water.

Weed Control: The best way to reduce weed incursion is to maintain a healthy and vigorous lawn area. That being said, even the healthiest lawn can have a weed problem of varying degrees. Weeds are classified as either broad-leaf weeds or grassy weeds. There are various tools available for the control of weeds including chemical control or mechanical removal. Check out our Lawn Chemicals page here for more information. Pre-emergent herbicides: Used primarily to control grassy annual weeds like crabgrass.

This type of herbicide is generally applied in the early spring before these grasses begin to germinate. Selective herbicides: Used to control weeds once they are in the lawn area without killing the lawn area. Dandelions, thistle, plantain, and many others can be controlled with different selective herbicide without damage to the turf area.

Non-selective herbicides: Used to kill all vegetation. An example of this is Roundup that kills virtually any herbaceous plant. Get rid of any debris like weeds, grass cuttings, sticks, leaves, and stones.

Even out dips and hills in your lawn using a rake. Fertilize with nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Add lime if your soil is too acidic for a certain type of grass. This is called soil amendment. Use quality soil. The best mix of soil called loam soil includes sand, silt, and clay, which will keep the moisture in. But remember, there are different soil types for different seed types. Water your soil thoroughly. Test your soil.

Make sure it has the right pH levels and nutrients needed to support fertilization. Plant grass seeds evenly. Keep soil moist. Monitor germination. Keep an eye for grass establishment.

Wait to mow. Consider pregermination. Mistakes to avoid when growing grass How deep you plant the seeds, what type of soil you use, how much water you give them, and what soil temperature the seeds are in matters.

Avoid the following common mistakes: Planting the wrong type of seed. See the above information for the best seeds for your region. Planting grass seed in the wrong season. If you live in warm-weather climate, you should plant seeds in early spring and summer. If you live in cold-weather climate e. Skipping the soil test. Forgetting to water or overwatering. To grow successfully, seeds need moisture, but you should avoid drowning your seeds in water. Letting the area dry out.

Although overseeding can help restore a lawn, it can be problematic for a new lawn. If you put down too much grass seed, you can actually cause more problems. Walking on the soil.

Until you have fully grown grass, try to avoid walking on your newly planted seeds. We recommend avoiding foot traffic, if possible, for at least three weeks.

Watering new seeds: Too much or not enough? Make sure the top inch of soil is moist after watering. When seedlings appear all across your lawn, you can lower the frequency to once per day, in the mornings.

There should be no puddles, or the seeds will not remain planted. What it takes to grow grass Eighty percent of American homes have lawns. DIY You may be saving money, but the results can vary greatly between success to ruining your lawn. More often than not, you get what you pay for. If something goes awry with any step in the process, they are the ones who are best equipped to know how to handle it. Backed by their Healthy Lawn Guarantee , TruGreen will have someone stop by between your scheduled visits to ensure you are satisfied with your lawn.

They do everything —from soil preparation, to picking the right kind of grass, to providing the right kind of grass seed mixture, to aerating and fertilizing your lawn. Mulch the seedbed to prevent soil erosion, retain moisture and prevent crusting of the soil surface. The most commonly used mulch is straw. However, it is important to use weed-free straw. One bale of straw 60 to 80 pounds will cover about 1, square feet.

Peat moss and aged sawdust do not make good mulches for seeded lawns. These materials compete with the seed for water and are slow to decay. Water the lawn as soon as possible after seeding.

Watering with a fine spray will help seed to germinate, but be sure to prevent washing or puddling. Irrigation: Proper watering is the most critical step in establishing turfgrasses from seed. Apply water frequently so that the soil is moist, but not excessively wet.

Supplying water two or three times a day in small quantities for about two to three weeks will ensure adequate moisture for germination. If the surface of the soil is allowed to dry out at any time after the seeds have begun to swell and before roots have developed, many of the seedlings will die. As the seedlings mature and the root system develops, the frequency of waterings can be decreased, but the volume should be increased, so that the entire root zone is moistened, not just the soil surface.

During the establishment phase, a number of practices can be employed to help ensure a uniform, dense turf. A combination of mulching and irrigation is the key factor in successful turfgrass establishment. If a straw or hay mulch is used, be sure to monitor the grass seedlings for shading. If the new seedlings show a yellowing, lightly rake away some of the mulch.

Mowing: Begin normal mowing practices when the turfgrass seedlings reach a height one-third higher than the normal mowing height. It is important to maintain a sharp cutting blade to avoid pulling these seedlings out of the soil.

Apply about one-half pound of actual nitrogen per 1, square feet watered into the soil. Avoid excessively high nitrogen fertilization. Irrigation: The surface of the soil where seeds are germinating and seedling growth occurs should be moist at all times.

The goal is to water often enough to keep the seedbed moist but not saturated, until the plants can develop sufficient root systems to take advantage of deeper and less frequent watering. Soils that have not been mulched will tend to dry out quickly. Less irrigation will be needed if mulch was used. The quantity of water applied will be small and should be maintained for at least three weeks following planting.

As the turfgrass matures, reduce irrigation to a maintenance level to promote a deep root system. Weed Control: Timing of weed control practices is also critically important once seeds have germinated. Most herbicides are somewhat toxic to newly germinated turfgrass plants. Delay postemergence applications of a herbicide for weed control as long as possible after seeding. Follow recommendations found on pesticide labels closely as far as timing of application and planting. Diligent care of the young lawn during the first two or three months is important for its overall success.

Vegetative planting is simply the transplanting of large or small pieces of grass. Solid sodding covers the entire seedbed with vegetation. Spot sodding, plugging, sprigging or stolonizing refer to the planting of pieces of sod or individual stems stolons or underground runners rhizomes. Most warm-season turfgrasses are established by planting vegetative plant parts.

Exceptions to this include centipedegrass, carpetgrass, common improved bermudagrass, and some varieties of Japanese lawngrass Zoysia japonica , which can be established from seed. It is recommended where quick cover is desired for aesthetic reasons or to prevent soil erosion. Establishment procedures for sod include soil preparation, obtaining sod of high quality, transplanting, and post-planting care. Soil Preparation: Soil preparation for sodding is identical to that for seeding.

Sod is purchased in rectangular slabs or small rolls. Carry the sod from the pallets on a cart or wheelbarrow, and use a steel rake to position each piece firmly against adjacent sod pieces.

Sod Quality: Before installing the sod, inspect it carefully for weeds, diseases, and insects. Store the sod in a cool, shady place until used, but do not store for a long period. Frequently moisten the sod to prevent the edges from drying out. Generally, sod must be laid within 48 hours of delivery. Sod Transplanting: The primary objective in sod transplanting is to achieve as quick a rooting into the underlying soil as possible.

Factors that influence quick rooting include: proper soil preparation, adequate soil moisture in the underlying soil, and transplanting techniques that will minimize sod drying. A long handled edging tool can be sharpened, and this makes for quick edging on curved sections of lawns.

Install cool-season turfgrass sod anytime during the year as long as the soil is not frozen.