What size bow should i get

Simply, the draw length is distance between the grip and the nocking point. Another important archery element when it comes to sizing a bow is the draw length.

The draw length is essentially the distance you get when fully drawing your bow from the nock point of your arrow to the arrow rest of your bow.

Now, this is where it gets tricky. For compound bows, the built-in mechanism will only allow you to draw a bow up to a certain level so, this would be the draw length of a compound bow. However, for recurve bows, you can actually overdraw or underdraw them, both of which are bad more on this a bit later.

Still, compound bows are tunable so you can change the draw length later on. As such, finding out your own unique draw length is essential for recurve bow shooters.

For starters, here is the most basic way to determine your draw length and in effect, to answer the question of what size recurve bow you would need :. The figure you get in the end would be your suggested draw length! Consider this variable together with the recommended draw weight to choose a bow that will be apt for you! You can get even more details on finding your draw length here.

Additionally, your height can be a good approximation on how to find the right size of bow for you as it's probably the same as your armspan. But please, do take this with a grain of salt - for best results measure your arm span, and choose a bow for your arm span, not your height. But for reference, here are some figures to determine your bow size in comparison to your height:.

Using your height will be inaccurate. Too much draw weight is dangerous, and too little draw weight is bad too. The draw weight is defined as the force you will need to draw your bow to your anchor position. Measured by pounds, this archery element will let you know if a bow will best suit your unique style and strength! Now, why should you consider the weight when it comes to making a full draw?

Again, this is more than showing off your strength. Equipping a bow with the proper draw weight will not only let you shoot properly. It will also help prevent you from overdrawing your bow.

Doing so will both prevent damaging your gear and saving yourself from pesky injuries. In a nutshell, here are some recommended draw weight figures to help you on how to size a recurve bow:. Remember, these are all just recommended figures, it all depends on your own preference or strength! Your choice of bow length should be determined by your draw length, not your height. Obviously this is somewhat correlated, because the taller you are the more likely that you will have a long draw length.

However, you should be basing your bow length from your draw length. Very generally, a longer bow feels smoother to draw and expand through the clicker than a shorter bow. A longer bow will also generally be a bit slower than an equivalent poundage bow that is shorter. A shorter bow causes an increased string angle when at full draw. I see risers come in various sizes.

Is there a calculation as to which size I should be considering? I am 5 foot 4 inches and my arm span is 67 inches which would make my draw weight about inches that would make the bow the same size as me… Is that right because that seems very big or did I do something wrong? Hold your hand you would use to hold the bow in front of you, as if you were holding it. Pull your string back until your pointer finger is touching the corner of your mouth.

That distance, roughly, is your draw length. I know this is an old comment, but, if it helps it helps. I've also shot Bear and Martin longbows that performed very well.

Custom bows do have their advantages. Well-made models are great performers, and each bow is truly a work of art made to your specifications. If you order a custom bow, trust the bowyer and listen to his or her suggestions on bow length and materials. There are literally hundreds of custom bowyers, so do some research before laying down any money.

I haven't shot them all but some custom recurves I've been impressed with include Palmer, Horne, Stalker, Foley, and Robertson. One thing you should always consider is the warranty. If a company, whether a large manufacturer or a one-man custom operation, isn't willing to back its products, don't take the chance. Go with one that believes in its bows and is willing to back them.

Probably the most informative part of this column is my advice on how to hide your new purchase from your significant other. I've tried every excuse in the book, and these are some that have worked for me in the past. I say "past" because Michele reads Bowhunter Magazine, and I'm sure this part of the article will tip her off. But I feel that the needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few - in this case me.

Try one or a combination of the following lines to cover your tail. The key is not to admit you've actually spent any money. Give a Gift Subscriber Services. See All Special Interest Magazines.

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